Kounoungou is the first refugee camp I ever visited, back in 2005. I’ve been here again a few times since. It is bigger each visit. To all of the children that have been born here, Darfur is barely a mirage—something their parents tell stories and teachers sing songs about.
Kounoungou has a market, schools, and a soccer field—all of which give a sense of movement and life to the camp. But, it is a life that is in a state of limbo, where there’s little hope for progress or growth. People venture beyond the camp’s limits, but it’s always at a risk and seeking barely to survive.